116 at The Atheneaum is a luxury hotel with a history, that’s kept its’ classic British roots but given them a lift with an exotic Latin American twist. Even throughout its many transformations, its still kept its timely elegance. From starting life at the end of the 19th century as the home of MP Henry hope; who often enjoyed the company of Dickens at this very spot, to a century later, becoming an exclusive up-market residence housed within an art deco block.
When Henry Hope died and it was sold, it continued its prestigious club spirit as a hotbed of social activity as the Junior Atheneaum Club. Here it entertained the fabulously glamourous well- helled set it attracted in the 1930’s and for decades after, before being bought by a large leisure group.
From there on…it has never had any corporate or group re-fits to stamp on its’ timely appeal. Instead, its been tastefully transformed, and re-fitted, and the glamour and the prestige has always stayed. All the way throughout it’s changes to this day ‘The Atheneum’ has held on to its’ brand heritage. Its’ name Athenea- meaning Goddess of Wisdom’ in ancient Greek mythology defines it. But equally it has moved with the times, and whilst keeping it’s quintessential British roots, its’ also added a global influence to its’ cuisine. The dishes merge simple but seasonally fresh and good produce, with tinges of exotic twist, by current Executive Chef Ian Howard.
With tempting sharing plates of mackerel and sushi like delicately, and exquisitely presented ceviche- the plates look amazing and taste divine. When you enter into Mayfair territory you can almost guarantee that competition is high within the high-end dining stakes. But this restaurant is unique, given its luxurious location and venue, since the prices are reassuringly reasonable. A meal here guarantees you a great setting, charm and service within a competitive price bracket for 5-star dining. For a top end starter you can expect to pay £7.00 for a modern take of traditional ceviche of salmon, subtly infused with mango and avocado, on a squid ink cracker. The mains are meltingly good and in-expensive at £13.00. So you really can make it a home from home if you want.
When it comes to a non-standard menu that offers reassuringly good cuisine, at competitive prices, complemented by an interesting wine list,not least from Surrey producers Hambledon – its a good partnership. Given the fresh ripe fruity notes from their premim 65-year old aged wine, beholding the buttery depth of Burgundy, and with a really low acidity, its a match made in heaven. Hambledon Vineyard in Surrey regularly offer tastings with Michelin chefs and events.
The restaurant, effortlessly manages to combine wholesome freshly sourced seafood produce, with a Latin twist, alongside a traditional and interesting historic wine list featuring Surrey’s best from Hambleton Vineyard. Hambledon haa a place in English history, not only as the oldest running vineyard in the UK founded in 1952, but as the birthplace of cricket., and a wonderful escape in rural quaintness to take advantage of their regular tastings. 116 at Atheneum Hotel is definitely worth musing in.
The launch of the long awaited International Cité of Gastronomy and Wine in May has earnt Dijon, the capital of Burgundy, a place in the UNESCO heritage gastronomy network. The project officially opened to the public on the 6th May.
The aim of the regeneration project was to provide a space dedicated to showcasing gastronomy and wine, and provide a cultural and lifestyle hub celebrating the craftsmanship behind gastronomy and wine pairing. Across the dedicated space is a new cookery school, a number of new restaurants, and a 4-star hotel, as well as a number of pop up exhibitions. These all come together to help illustrate the 1000 year relationship Dijon has had with wine tastings from its’ worldwide acclaimed vineyards, to pairings with its’ unique gastronomy.
The site sits on what marks the beginning of the famed route des grands cru running from Dijon to Macon through to Beaune. Its’ taken several years’ for the new regeneration project to take shape, and it has carefully restored new life into an expanse of 16 acres that used to house the city’s hospital, amongst other buildings of 15th century origin that had become derelict. Michelin Star chef Eric Pras was instrumental in the project, sitting on the committee that drove the project forward from its initial conception in 2015 to completion in 2022.
The idea behind the “moveable feast”, as a euphonomy to Hemingways’ acclaimed book, is to strengthen social ties by showcasing wines, within a dedicated space, and to highlight the cultural heritage that Dijon has cultivated over decades. It also focuses on the uniqueness of the regions’s produce, and the importance attached to which wine should be paired with which meal. Making each meal a celebration, it provides the basis for the importance of our attachment and enjoyment to good food and wine.
Its’ breathed new life into the city, and moved it into the future with an eco-friendly cultural space dedicated to inviting people to share in the delights of gastronomy and wine. The huge space will lay host to an array of french gastronomic food producers, alongside their select wines from the region, as well as from other regions across France too.
Zedel’s – A Traditional French Feast With A Lively Beat
With the season in full swing, enjoy live ensemble bands, whilst tucking into a feast of traditional French dishes, in a grand and refined setting. So many of London’s much loved dining and night spots have now been replaced or bought out – so its with a pang of nostalgia to re-visit a longstanding dining spot in an opulent setting, with a salacious menu to match. In the heart of London’s theatre and clubland; Zedels is a stylish and original ‘grande brasserie’ that has served a lot of actors over the years, because of its ‘bon marché ‘menu.
You can really make an entrance here. Whilst not as salubrious as its’sister venue the Wolseley; of the same ownership, it goes all out to offer a timeless service orientated approach, hence its celebrated appeal. The doors are thrown open for you by top hat and tail staff; and you are directed to whether you want to take a seat in the American Bar or to your table in the opulency of the main dining room; with its ornate high ceilings and marble columns typifying its 1930’s art deco origins.
The dishes are bursting with French flavours and rustic rather than just exquisitely presented. You can go to town on the Alsacienne charcuterie and ‘choucroute’- which is on a par with the Wolseley, or go full out on a South of France speciality ‘cassoulet de confit de canard’ which is a typical regional dish of a roasted duck on a bed of white beans and sausage, swimming in a delicious sauce. Mains start at £23.00 but stretch as far out as £37.00 if you want chateaubriand to share; which realistically is the case for a lot of good restaurants.
Front of house is exceptional here in terms of making you welcome but once at the table its a different story. There is a very obvious hierarchy in the hospitality team and they seem to be forever busy but not as attentive to what should be going on with the tables in terms of where you are at with your meal. This could be however; due to the fact that the space is quite expansive, and there were probably not enough waiting staff to cater to the 240 covers.
For starters my salade of chevre chaude was wolfed down on its bed of well dressed lettuce. My perfectly mixed steak tartare was fine and not too spicey but I was slightly taken aback that as well as Tabasco – Lee and Perrins was brought to the table to add to it.
But when I started to tuck into my main course of steak tartare with pommes frites and a salade verte – there was a rush to come over to try to whisk the table cloth away; whilst what I actually wanted was the wine list back. My companion was over an hour late; which was really why I could only entertain myself on listening to the band and people watch, as well as enjoying a pichet of red wine. When she did finally arrive at 10.50pm and luckily so, since the kitchen takes orders up until 12am; she chose the not very exciting sea bream. Understandably, having been scouring the back streets of Soho for over an hour, she made her choice quite quick.
This grand brasserie has carved out a longstanding niche for itself as a refined setting for an upmarket take on an authentic regional French bistro, with lots of choice. With all the ingredients for a good night out – its a step back into another era and lots of fun with its lively atmosphere as well. It may not be as bon marche as more less grand takes on a traditional brasserie, because the bill came to £143.00 for 2 with standard wine. But its’ selection of regional French dishes that are wholsome, hearty and satisfying and a complexed and varied wine list. Also, once you factor in the exquisite setting and its Central London location; it remains a sought after choice for dinner and elegant entertainment combined.
The duo responsible for the operations of the Ullapool Distillery; The Highland Liquor Company, have launched their first venture on the West Coast of Scotland, on the shores of Loch Broom.
Helen Chalmers and Robert Hicks purchased the 18th Century tiny hotel with rooms and have restored the restaurant to their own quirky customised specifications. Chalmers and Hicks were given a grant by the Highlands & Islands Enterprise. This allowed them to embark on their restoration project to refurbish the restaurant and rooms; which they have named the Dipping Lugger.
Robert Hicks has had extensive experience in hospitality; and worked at the two Michelin Star Altnaharie Inn, in Gleneagles, Gidleigh Park and The Four Seasons in London. They employed the services of Eve Cullen-Cornes for the interior design of the restaurant. Cullen-Cornes was responsible for the design of the Padstow Townhouse and Tom Kerridges’ Hand and Flowers.
The restaurant is headed up by Head Chef David Smith; who succesfully ran the menus at the Boath House in Nairns and the Ulish Country House Hotel. He has created a seven course dinner tasting menu as well as a 4-course lunch menu for the 18 cover restaurant.
The boutique appeal of their bijoux stay, with 3 bedrooms, is enhanced by the aptly named Tasting Room. The Tasting Room was specifically designed for gin sampling, and also houses a ‘sweet shop.’
The General Manager is Calum Robertson.
AA Recharge Quality Hotel Break In Hockney Country
There is no sharper tonic than a refreshing break to the country. Anywhere you are in the World, there are wonders to remark on; whether it be the olive and lemon groves of Sicily that bask in red terrain, the eucalyptus trees that line the esplanades in Southern Spain, or the fertile rolling hills and contrasting landscape of the British countryside.
People flock from all over the world to take in what Great Britain has in terms of forever changing landscapes, and whilst we take our travels further afield; we often miss out on what is closer to home. Whilst there are many unique beauty spots to be found in the British countryside, none are more revered than the wild and rugged beauty of the Yorkshire Dales.
Yorkshire has some of the oldest ruins and abbeys to be found, world class cuisine, and surprisingly comfortable and stylish good value accommodation that fares well with business clients and locals looking for a weekend break. Its the land that inspired David Hockney, where he captured the essence of the British landscape in all its beauty. The deep ravines of limestone for which the area is famed for characterise much of the hillsides.
Getting There
The high-speed rail link in operation, means a trip to the Dales takes the same time as crossing from one side of London to the other. GNER trains also run a high-speed fast and frequent service from London’s Kings Cross, which is a pleasant ride interspersed with fantastic scenery to absorb whilst you sit back. The journey time takes 2.5 hours, and there is one change at Leeds, where the interconnecting train takes you to Skipton, as this part of the track does not have the electrical infrastructure compatible to GNER high-speed trains. The Leeds to Skipton GNER train runs on Diesel HST for the last leg of the journey, taking you straight into Skipton town.
Where To Stay
The Devonshire Fell Hotel
The Devonshire Fell is a boutique hotel situated in the picture postcard village of Burnsall, with its tea rooms, cottages and river streams trickling through. It is one of the most photographed villages in Britain. The Devonshire Fell is a rare find, and something that would not exist in London, in any shape or form, given the facilities, comfort, style and value for money. Gone are the days that a Bed and Breakfast should mean a greasy fry up in the morning, with more spring in the receptionist than in the bed mattress. Character beams, comfort, entertainment, and gourmet style dining can all be found at the same price as a B & B- at the Devonshire Fell Hotel. During our stay, we were met with nothing but charming and welcoming service that made it that bit more special.
You can’t relegate this hotel to the status of a 3 – star because it has so much more to offer. On the other hand, there is none of the pretense of a 4-star and the service is equivalent to, if not better and caters to the individual needs of the guests staying there. All of the 12 spacious rooms have been named after different villages, and come complete with features such as wide – screen televisions, comfy armchairs, character beams, painted walls and authentic bedsteads, rendering them with an up-to date and stylish feel. Suites come equipped with a writing desk with a separate area for relaxing in with a stylish sofa to soak up the views over the river and rolling hills.
It has a bar in the lobby, serving mixers, wines and cocktails and the hotel has its own wine cellar to give you some idea of the range offered. With a restaurant that has deservedly been awarded 2 AA rosettes, and the complimentary use of facilities such as a day spa, swimming pool, and the use of bicycles and tennis courts at the nearby Devonshire Arms Hotel, it sits comfortably in a league of its own.
Prices start at £75.00 for dinner, bed and breakfast.
For enquiries and reservations: call 01756 718111.
There is something to appeal to couples, families and walking enthusiasts alike, as this area is rich in history, scenic beauty, and traditional villages. It has Britain’s oldest Abbey, heaps of heritage sites, fantastic walking, and old inns serving the best ale, of course. Bolton Abbey lies nestled in a curve of the river on the Duke of Devonshire’s Bolton Abbey Estate, and is the oldest of its kind in the UK. From here, keen hikers can also take the four mile walk upstream taking them to the ancient Hunting Lodge, Barden Tower. Skipton is 12 miles away, and as well as some good shopping, it has an 11th Century Castle that is well worth a visit.
Bolton Abbey
We hired our bikes and set off on the not too challenging trek to Bolton Abbey, which was 5 miles there and back. As something of an amateur cyclist, this was about right, since you can be met with some steep inclines here that will keep you on your toes. The area is incredibly popular with cyclists for this reason, but the roads can be quite treacherous unless you are used to them.
Bolton Abbey is a must to see, since you get a glimpse of what life must have been like for the Augustine Monks living there. The Augustine monks were granted the land by Lady Alice De Romille of Skipton. Whilst the original abbey is in ruins, there is a detailed map on a plaque showing the original layout of all the rooms, so from the positioning of each room, you can see which ruin represents which part of the living quarters. The Priory Church itself is intact inside, and the 13th Century architecture of the Nave is a masterpiece in craftwork, with six magnificent Medieval stained glass windows, each telling a story of tradition through the imagery.
Shopping and Sightseeing
Skipton is an old mill town fondly named ‘Gateway to the Dales’. It is surrounded by waterways, with a popular way of exploring the town by boat. There are many canal boat trips organised through the Tourist Office, or you can do it independently, and hire your own. Whilst the area around the station is not that appealing, don’t be disheartened, as the old town has some fantastic high-end shops, restaurants, and an old mill. It earned itself the title of ‘Best UK High Street’ in 2009, at the Academy of Urbanism Awards. Once you venture further into the cobbled streets of the old town, you find a veritable treasure trove of boutiques, art galleries and antique shops, and the High Corn Mill dating back to 1310. Fantastic sights, such as where Skipton Castle perches magnificently on a steep cliff, provide amazing views across the town and canal basin.
Scenic Tours
The Millenium Walk opened in Skipton in 2000, and gives visitors the chance to explore further afield into the lesser known nooks and crannies that are waiting to be discovered. As well as taking in the main historic sights, this walk follows a footpath that takes you deep into the rural beauty of this area.
Malham Cove is less than half an hours drive from Skipton, and is a stunning example of limestone formed in the last ice age, where the cove was cut back as it fell over the edge of a waterfall. If you are up for a challenge, take the 416 steps up to the top to see the limestone pavement and take in the breathtaking view.
Christie & Co; the luxury property company arm of Christies Auction House, have successfully secured a deal to buy Devon Hotel – the Fox and Hound.
In a landmark move; the Fox and Hound Hotel in Eggesford, has been bought by Kate and Warren Walker Lane. Following the trend of its’ top tier status as a boutique hotel that was nominated as one of the best dog-friendly hotels in 2018.
The scenic setting of the Fox and Hound has contributed to its growth vision by the Walker Lanes; in hospitality, as a prestige events and wedding venue. The beautiful scenic grounds house a 2 -bedroom self -catering tree-house, bar, restaurant and fishing boat.
The 22 bedroom hotel, dating back to the 19th Century; has maintained its’ period features; which have been carefully updated amongst the hotel rooms and suites. The inside interiors have a less luxurious, but characterful and homely feel, for dog lovers looking forward to coming back after long walks in the surrounding countryside.
Owners Kate and Warren Walker- Lane say; “We fell in love with the Fox and Hounds on our first visit and we are delighted to have the opportunity to shepherd the ongoing growth and development of this beautiful property,” says Helen Walker-Lane. “The hotel and grounds still have enormous potential and we’re incredibly excited to begin investing in our vision for the future of the hotel.”
Stephen Champion, director in Christie & Co’s Hospitality team, who brokered the sale, comments: “We are delighted to have brokered the sale of the Fox & Hounds Country Hotel, having originally sold the hotel to Nick and Tara 14 years ago.
The hotel sits in a prime position in the centre of the stunning Devon Countryside and is perfectly placed to take advantage of the ‘staycation boom’ that Devon is currently enjoying.
We have no doubt Helen and Matthew’s prior business experience will stand them in good stead to make a success of this new venture.”
Vine Hotels has increased it’s portfolio of luxury venues to 12 with the acquisition of the Old Rectory- a Grade II listed building near Sheffield.
The property development company has stepped in to buy it from a charity who had been running it at a loss. They have saved the ailing business with a turn around venture to restore life back into it as a successful wedding and events venue.
The period property went into liquidation earlier in the year and is looking forward to a future as the 4th acquisition of Vines Hotels over the period of 1 year only.
The property comprises of a hall, two Georgian rooms, and premium wedding suites The Orgreave and The Ballifield which can cater up to 80 guests in total. It is part of a recent string of purchases bought by the property development company; including Charlecote Pheasant, Stratford, Bredbury Hall, Stockport, and The Dartmouth Hotel and Spa, Dartmouth.
Vine Hotels CEO Garin Davies said: “The Old Rectory is a delightful period property that has huge potential to grow as one of Sheffield’s premium wedding and event destinations. We will bring our expertise in venue management and operations to The Old Rectory and restore it to the thriving venue we know it can be.”
Former BBC Director Greg Dyke runs the Vines Hotel Group; which was founded by CEO Garin Davies; former Divisional Director of BDL Management and Best Western GB.
The Group has a number of luxury properties to it’s name which include the Best Western Cresta Court, Altrincham, The Mercure Southhampton Hotel, and 5 properties in Sheffield.
The Sophisticated Allure Of Slovenia’s First Capital
I went on a tour around Llubljana to find out exactly why falling in love is so easy here; with its laidback sophistication, baroque finesse, and riverside dining that’s a joy for all generations. I also happily got a glimpse of why it once received the title European Capital of Culture. The city centre has held onto the beauty of its 19th century renaissance appeal; without the invasion of modern art reminders that have been curated and erected to tell a new story.
Across all the pockets of this fascinating city is a rich tapestry of renaissance and baroque art, and romantic reminders that inspire, uplift and excite. Its’ just a slip of a country in what used to be the old Yugoslavia, bordered by Trieste in Northern Italy, Croatia and Hungary. Since the country became independent in 1991, at the same time as Croatia, it has held on to 26 different dialects. You will see on the bridges that the Dragon has become a National Symbol after the Myth of Jason and the Argonauts.
It’s a fairy tale land of beguiling beauty, with beautiful scenery that sets the bacdrop to its’ rich cultural heritage. The capital Llubljana is a masterpiece of baroque and renaissance architecture, captivating squares and mesmorising bridges that all convey a pre-occupation with romance.
Llubljana
It’s said by some that Llubljana is a marriage between Vienna and Prague, with an Italian lover. With its turbulent past, and influences from the Romans, Medieval and Ottoman Empire, it’s not a surprise that its’ rich tapestry remains vibrantly alive today.
Around every corner and in every square in Llubljana is a reminder to those who have visited, conquered and fallen in love here. All the squares tell a story, with their statues of Napoleon, Adam and Eve, and Slovenia’s most revered poet France Preseren (1800-1849) serenading his muse. Even one of the 3 bridges is lined with engraved padlocks left by couples who have thrown the keys into the river as a symbol of their everlasting love.
Café society is a way of life here and cocktails and dining in the many restaurants along the river is a favourite past -time. Where Summer evenings comfortably top the high 20’s, the charming characteristics of this relaxed city favour al fresco dining, expecially with the views that riverside dining provide. Many cocktail bars and restaurants play boogie woogie jazz and Dixieland to inject even more laid back sophistication into the setting.
Lubljana Castle
The fortress perched on the top of the hill is one of the must see places to get an amazing bird’s eye view of the spectacular architecture of this city. The funicular regularly runs to take you to the top, or for the more cardio inclined, you can climb up the hill on foot. There is also a tourist train that runs 20 minutes past the hour from the castle, down to the centre on Streliskar Street.
Built in the 15th Century, its’ main purpose was to defend against the numerous Turkish invasions of the 15th and 16th Century. The castle courtyard has a restaurant and café, that lets you take a breath ( if you walked up the hill) and browse the art exhibitions that take place here and in the castle turrets for free. Guided tours run regularly throughout the day until late September to find out about the history of the castle, and during the Summer Season open-air concerts, movie screenings and Medieval Days frequently take place.
Getting About
The preferred mode of transport for sightseeing tourists tends to be the Cavalier – the Slovenian equivalent of the Rikshaw except its’ free and a pleasant way to take a tour of the city. But for me the benefits of getting about are that you don’t need to walk very far without putting your hiking boots on, to get the benefits of riverside romance in abundance.
Bikes are also a popular alternative. Their equivalent of Boris bikes are lined up around the city and City guides clearly mark rent a bike points. When it comes to taxis, negotiate to get the cheapest price and look out for some taxi companies that have free telephone numbers. The cheapest taxi company is Metro and comes highly recommended.
Where to Stay
Grand Hotel Union
This Art Nouveau hotel, that retains the original grandeur of when it was first built in 1905, is the perfect standpoint from which to visit the highlights of Slovenia’s first capital. With so much to see in the city, the comfort and service of this hotel provides the perfect indulgence for sightseeing and shopping enthusiasts. With its 63 double rooms, 8 single rooms, and 3 executive suites, this hotel has a reputation for being a favourite with filmstars, royalty and politicians, with past guests including President Clinton, HRH Elizabeth II and Prince Albert of Monaco.
You can either do a long weekend shopping trip with 3 nights for the price of 2 for under £400 otherwise prices vary from the nightly rate of £500 for an executive suite.
The enduring quality of British Artisan producers in post -brexit and Covid times, are dressing the tables at the UK’s classiest Michelin star emporiums. With an aura of uncertainty omnipresent; top restaurants don’t want to steer to far from home turf when it comes to their produce and are not being swayed to source their produce elsewhere. Amidst uncertain trade deals, unclear tariffs; and rows over fishing territories, one such restaurant coveting the virtues of home grown land produce is the Core in Kensington.
Helped in part that this exciting venture that started in 2017 has achieved 3 stars from a woman that grew up on an Irish farm, it’s not surprising that regional sustainability is at it’s core. It’s achieved nothing but success since owner Clare Smyth went solo after leaving her post of Head Chef at Ramsey’s Gordon Ramsey The only female chef ( of few anyway) to have gained 3 Michelin stars, Clare’s passion for rural pairings have credited the Core with top tier status in the ultimate bible -the 2021 Michelin Guide.
In a climate of UK farmers frazzled over their meat being mistaken by imports from Australia; and equally unclear boundaries over fishing territories, Core’s ethos is firmly behind supporting British sustainabillity. Whilst the produce keeps its feet on familar terrain; the dishes can’t be more original and creative. Like works of of art; these are layers and crafted textures; which like painting compositions have achieved a fine edge and polished finish.
The detail, presentation, curated pairings, and the entire packaging of this outfit leaves more to the imagination than merely a meal out. In a field of fierce competition, Clare Symth stands out from the rest; which was why she was chosen to host the wedding ceremony of the decade for Harry and Meghan.
Braised lamb served inside an entire carrot is a masterpiece of simple complexity. In my years of trying out innovative restaurants, nothing could beat the fresh sea taste of the Scottish langoustine, delicately scented with wasabi pea, rose geranium and almond, as subtle sweet scents to the juiciest lobes of lobster. These looked too pretty to eat initially, but were a delicate accompaniment.
The 7 course tasting menu is priced at £145 and something of a special occasion sprint. Expect the likes of jellied eel, and cod roe with caviar. The dishes have been constructed carefully and appeal to a fine palate; with taste in abundance not taking second fiddle to artistic presentation. The choices in the grazing menus have more than enough different taste sensations to take the tastebuds through an elevated journey.
This legendary hideaway for communist exiles concocted many a scandal; and the secret to why it’s still going strong. In the 60’s it was the favourite meeting place for John Profumo and Christine Keeler; during their notorious Profumo Affair. Over the decades it’s been running, Daquise has celebrated rustic recipes from generations; offering a true taste of Polish tradition.
“The tartare is expertly crafted and mixed in front of you”
Fiercely proud people because of what they have had to fight for, theirs is comfort food of sorts, with lots of meats, winter vegetables and sweet and sour flavours.
Daquise delves into a dark past – symbolic of the origins of the Iron Curtain, as Poland led the revolt against Russian communism. When it opened in 1947, it was a refuge for government officials exiled from their country by the Communist regime. Under its own veil of secrecy, plots were hashed here to find ways to overthrow it.
Located in a quaintly boho part of South Kensington, in the same stretch as the V & A reading room and bar, it’s quietly obscure and unassuming. A touch austere, quirky and even eccentric could describe the atmosphere and deck out. But don’t let the stripped down walls, rustic seating and the out of place chandelier put you off, since its more about tradition here. Not your normal swish, chi- chi South Kensington eaterie but the kind of place you can just stroll past and pop in adhoc, when finding yourself in the quarter.
On arriving, we were ushered in by a gentleman who introduced himself as Wojtek; proudly pointing out he was a good friend of the Gesslers, and was helping out whilst they were at their signature restaurant in Warsaw. As we moved towards the only table with reserved on it, to my amusement my partner said “but we’re not reserved we’re outgoing.”
The humour was lost on our host, who promptly entered into an informed dialogue on what was on offer, and whether or not we would prefer beer or vodka with our meal. Not being a beer drinker, I opted for the traditional Zubrowka, known in English as Bison vodka. It’s definitely not to be overlooked as it’s very smooth and soft on the palate. My partner enlisted himself to try a couple of the staple beers, choosing the rather strong and yeasty ale-like Lech. If you like beer, you will find a good range here from malty or yeasty ale to the white beers of Kronenbourg ilk.
We were both not going to pass on having the steak tartare as a starter, chopped and mixed expertly right in front of our eyes, by the chef on a robust wooden table. The gig here is that the craft of it is captured, and I was pleased to have tasted the best tartare I have tasted in a long time. For the main my basic dish of braised beef with bouillon and cabbage sounded like a school dinner equivalent of boiled beef and cabbage – but that was where the similarity ended.
I felt like I was being given the same warmth and care as if I was being looked after at home. The chef came to the table and separated the bouillon from the beef and vegetables and lovingly spooned it into a side bowl, then swiftly doused the beef with a buttery béchamel sauce that was simply divine.
Having the pan brought to the table and showing the careful process of separating jus from the juices of the meat and having them execute it in front of you adds to the rustic charm of Daquise. My partner chose the Kaczka roast duck with red cabbage and raisins, and whilst the duck was roasted to a perfection of crisp on the outside and moist inside, the raisins made the red cabbage too sweet.
At Daquise the customer is not treated with pomp and circumstance but with care and attention not out of place in a family context. You are made to feel part of a community; and a meal here is more than a good time, but an insight into the warmth and cultural traditions held onto by generations.
Daquise Restaurant
30 Thurloe Street
South Kensington SW7 2LT
Visit http://daquise.co.uk/
